MAKING FORMAL DRESS PART 3

SEWING LINING TO FABRIC... CONT'D:

So here I have attached the lining to the fabric on the inner sides. There is only one method to do this because there is no way you can join all seams on one side: you have to sew halfway while joining the seams, then flip it around and finish the other half from the other side. If you are worried about the seams not matching up when fixing the 2-halves, you can take the less stressful method of leaving a gap like what I did in the photo.

The gaps can be easily concealed with handstitching! Just hide your knots well. 

ATTACHING INVISIBLE ZIP:

I don't have an invisible zipper foot for my domestic sewing machine (which is really essential) so what I did was to sew as close to the zipper tooth as possible. Then I handstitch it by holding the zipper teeth outwards with my thumb and do secure stitching to my center back (with the specialised zipper foot it is designed in a way that the zipper teeth are flipped out when you are sewing, making zippers an easy task). Very time consuming with handstitches but no choice for me!

*Tip 5* Make sure your seams align when the zipper is closed!  I have a waist seam so that was important to make sure they are not uneven when zipped. It looks unprofessional if the lines don't match. Also the top seam you might just get one up and down if you're not careful. Just be patient and use pins or tacking and test it out before sewing it.

Next I understitch the facing piece, note it doesn't go all the way around the straps because the machine can't do it. It's better than nothing though, and after that I steam everything nice and flat.

ATTACHING ZIP TO LINING:

The quick way is to use a machine, but I prefer handstitching with invisible stitches to save me the stress of trying to align the seams. 

*Tip 6* I iron out the seam first then use a single white thread and stitched it on the zip a little to the side so the zipper won't catch the lining and rip it. The bottom of the lining piece is sewn first with machine then I just steam the seams open.

*Tip 7* Optional: I use a 'little worm' (not sure what it's called in English) as a buffer for the zipper so the stitches don't wear out when you pull down the zip.

HEMMING:

I use invisible stitches to hem. Double fold, iron then handstitch. My slits were originally on the side (it was an A-line skirt then I altered it into a straight skirt to make it look more stylish) but I shifted it into the center back so I didn't manage to leave a seam to fold in, but I stitched it anyhow. Won't fray because I'm using the selvedge for the center back. And I added another 'little worm' at the top of the slit too. 

I used machine for the lining's hem.

RIBBON:

Made with 3 pieces of  scrap cloth, the bow is made with a rectangular piece, the tail with 2 pieces and the 'knot' is from a small rectangular piece. Not hard to assemble, after that it's sewn onto the waist band of the dress!

Done! I just need to iron this and it's ready =D Now I'm gonna make my 2nd dress. Hope I didn't bore you to death!!